New brake pad for the front twin pot~

During last track day, i can feel mango's front brake fading after 4~5 laps in the track, especially at the end of track after the shiken. So as usual, i took it out and check as soon as i reach factory. 

My original Akibono brake pad wasn't looking good... it's was shinning like a mirror... indicating the pad is 'dying' ~  a call to my uncle as standard procedure.

This is what he send down to me. Entry level Bendix ceramic brake pad.

view from one side~

and view from the other side.

new brake pad installed and still in run in stages. So far there's little different on braking  power. But hope it would last me few more round in Kg Gajah's track.

Just love the look of my mango's twin port. (Maybe next pad change would look for Endless~ ^.^ in deep blue hohoho~) 

Mango's Trusted Etherna Twin-port tested ^.^

left brake, good shade of purple ^.^ pass~
Right rotor, good shade of purple as well ^.^ pass~

steering weren't shaking when braking over 160km/h~ pass ^.^

Finally ~ Mango on his feet again~ ^.^

Finally, it's all done and ready for installation into my mango (TE72)^.^ first, install the bracket, then the rotor with the wheel bearing hub. be-careful not to lock your bearing nut too tight, for it will cause your bearing to wear out too fast or even worst, JAM~ 

for what some old for-man teach me, you tighten it with your hand till it's tight, then release around 1/12 round reverse then it will do :P~ (no responsibility bear here for any accident or injury cause by following the above instruction)

all sit in nicely and firm
on to the knuckle and screw on the new Brisk break hose, (courtesy of Chean Exhaust)

thanks a lot bro ;)
My 14" watanabe RS fits in nicely, leaving only 6mm of clearance around the caliper and the rim ^.^ 
Brisk performance metal hose. Good value for the price to pay ;)
Somehow, every time i remove something from the car, i would find more faulty items/parts. this time, i found out the steering rod ball-joint had a worn thread due to exceed assemble and dissembling. 

Now i'm still try to figure out the reason my brake was responding kinda of weird, it's responding better on the right compare to the left. It tent to lock-up when pressing on the brake too hard. Anyone would have any advice for me??? ^_^~

Cleaning up the Twin-Port ~

While testing the twin-port's working condition using air-pressure, i discovered that one of the caliper isn't working properly, or can say, isn't working at all. So we had to force the piston out by attaching the caliper onto mango's master pump and use the brake fluid's force to push the piston out. 
And what came into our eyes was super dirty+rusty fluid and piston. this two really need a lot of cleaning to make them work fine.
A comparation of the piston, left-clean and polished, right, un-touch.
all the piston after went through my polish machine.
look at it shine, this port won't giving me trouble for some time to come ^.^ just need some rubber grease and it's good to go. 
After setting the caliper into the nitric phosphorus solution (rust cleaner) and waiting for the rubber seal and cover to soften themselves in the paraffin solution, i get my hand on painting the caliper with metallic  paint. Try to use those which is use for car's body paint, which cost around RM12~16/250ml. This type would last longer under tremendous heat condition.

Mango is getting a new brake, definitely.

After a close call when i was 'cruising' down the flight-over in front of my dad's old shop house, (i was driving around 120, and an idiot in saga cut into my lane, out-most lane of the 3. at about 50~60km/h, so i put my feet hard on mango brake, but instantly the car went sideway, sway to the left furiously! which means my front right brake was not working! good thing the training in Kg gajah pays off plus i had a welded axle so the rear brake can do his work, with a pull of e-brake and slight throttler, i manage to pull mango back to normal line. but i only miss the bloody saga by feet~! )

so the first thing i went back to the factory is to take out mango's right brake and exam it, and first thing i saw is a black-en rotor
it's silvery shinny on the left hand side and black on the right hand side.
and a pair of worn and "fried" brake pad. it's same size as KE70, as i survey around and to found out that there aren't many ppl (or any at all) manufacturing performance pad for KE70, i call up my best friend, McGuyver and ask him to help me search for solution.

after a few days, he shown up before my factory and show me what he had in the hood, a pair of toyota AE111 levin front rotor and a pair of EVO 2 twin port caliper - with a broad grin on his face. lol~
the original ke-86 rotor is around 240mm in diameter

and 17.5mm thick
the AE111 rotor is 265mm in diameter
but with a wooping 22mm thickness ^.^ that's a good looking guy. hoho~
so without much delay, i took everything and went next door to the precision factory to start fabricating them to put into mango.

first, hook up on the lathe machine to flat-en up the surface, groove it and balance it so it will work perfectly later.

zoom in to look at the fine groove line. i dun wan a silky slick surface which result in less grip. so i ask the machine fella to grove the surface using 64lines/inches setting to make it a bit rough.
before doing the  balancing, we had to drill new holes to enable the rotor to hook onto the original hub of mango.
drilling in precision isn't easy work. it takes a lot of delicate instrument to enable a precise hole where the rotor will spin in perfect working condition. the variance acceptable here is 0.1mm.
it's how it look after balancing and assemble back on the hub and put back into the AE86 knuckle. just love the new shinny look of the rotor.

more updates after the new bracket was make and the twin-port caliper installed. ^.^ till then~