Adjustable Panhard rod modification~

After setting up the exhaust, and feel the power coming back into mango i had a test drive together with Ah Wei (12) and instantly he found out that mango was turning himself during acceleration(right) and deceleration(left). 

First i though was my caster arm's bushing wasn't good. But after changing it, the problem still exist. So i call up Uncle Choi and get some opinion from him. And he ask me to check if my axle was slanting to the left. 

And BINGO~ it does! Mango's axle is slanting 15mm to the left! After looking around, i decided to make a adjustable length panhard rod out from mango's original rod with camry's adjustable rod. 

mango's original panhard rod.
camry's rear arm with toe adjuster
hybrid panhard rod ^.^
This is something i insert between two rod's inner tube before i joint them together, to make sure that they joint nicely and strong
original rubber bushing compare to camry's steel bearing bushing.
both end welded
clean joint
painted in GOLD~  :P hohoho~
installed and good to go! ^.^ with the new steel bearing design of the connector, mango's rear did feel stiffer during cornering compare to original rod. which will sway a bit during exit-ing corners. plus it's must for anyone who planing to lowered their rear-axle car, to align your axle correctly. 

Out the 4-2-1~ In the 4-1~ ^.^ For more mid end torque?

After driving mango around for a while, i discover that mango's 4age-20v wasn't revving nicely durnig 3k~5k. Than McGuyver said it might be the 4-2-1 mango currently using is not breathing well. since the cam had higher lift and more air going into the engine. So something had to be done to the exhaust ^_^. A trip to chean exhaust is indeed.

So i retrieve the custom made 4age-20V 4-1 header for FR setting with ceramic coating! 
and took out the old 4-2-1 sr20-mod-ed with 4age-20v FF-header.
everything took out fairy easy with lot's of hand space in mango's engine chamber ^.^ 
but my O2 sensor wasn't happy to go into the header... for it's from sr20.... some cutting is in order. (sorry, no photo for the cutting part :P
the curve fit in nicely ^.^ big hurry for the japs.

bending the 2.5" soft-pipe to fit into the 2.2" pipe i'm using from front to rear. 
Everything fits in and working nicely~ and mango-sings~!

Mango's Trusted Etherna Twin-port tested ^.^

left brake, good shade of purple ^.^ pass~
Right rotor, good shade of purple as well ^.^ pass~

steering weren't shaking when braking over 160km/h~ pass ^.^

Rare Gab hi-lo adjustable absorber sighted~

After mango done his alignment at Pony's place, i went all the way to the end of the street where Poon Motor is shifting into his new premises. 

While i dig through his pile of blocks+parts, i saw some unusual thing stuck-ing out under the pile. It was a old GAB adjustable (Japan's GAB suspension company, Wings Co. close down in 2002 so GAB had stop production since) 

It's all the same as any GAB japan adjustable but with a special bolt on top of it's soft-hard adjuster. 
it's a gas (nitrogen only please~ dun pump normal air) inlet which had similar inlet head as we use for out tyre tube. It's a really rare indeed.

Finally ~ Mango on his feet again~ ^.^

Finally, it's all done and ready for installation into my mango (TE72)^.^ first, install the bracket, then the rotor with the wheel bearing hub. be-careful not to lock your bearing nut too tight, for it will cause your bearing to wear out too fast or even worst, JAM~ 

for what some old for-man teach me, you tighten it with your hand till it's tight, then release around 1/12 round reverse then it will do :P~ (no responsibility bear here for any accident or injury cause by following the above instruction)

all sit in nicely and firm
on to the knuckle and screw on the new Brisk break hose, (courtesy of Chean Exhaust)

thanks a lot bro ;)
My 14" watanabe RS fits in nicely, leaving only 6mm of clearance around the caliper and the rim ^.^ 
Brisk performance metal hose. Good value for the price to pay ;)
Somehow, every time i remove something from the car, i would find more faulty items/parts. this time, i found out the steering rod ball-joint had a worn thread due to exceed assemble and dissembling. 

Now i'm still try to figure out the reason my brake was responding kinda of weird, it's responding better on the right compare to the left. It tent to lock-up when pressing on the brake too hard. Anyone would have any advice for me??? ^_^~

Cleaning up the Twin-Port ~

While testing the twin-port's working condition using air-pressure, i discovered that one of the caliper isn't working properly, or can say, isn't working at all. So we had to force the piston out by attaching the caliper onto mango's master pump and use the brake fluid's force to push the piston out. 
And what came into our eyes was super dirty+rusty fluid and piston. this two really need a lot of cleaning to make them work fine.
A comparation of the piston, left-clean and polished, right, un-touch.
all the piston after went through my polish machine.
look at it shine, this port won't giving me trouble for some time to come ^.^ just need some rubber grease and it's good to go. 
After setting the caliper into the nitric phosphorus solution (rust cleaner) and waiting for the rubber seal and cover to soften themselves in the paraffin solution, i get my hand on painting the caliper with metallic  paint. Try to use those which is use for car's body paint, which cost around RM12~16/250ml. This type would last longer under tremendous heat condition.

Port~ Port~ and polish~

Business was slow as usual, so as the past few days i had been spending most of my time sitting in the office, taking a part my spare throttler body, from my spare blacktop head, and where i took out the cam and put into mango ^.^ 

ITB, this is one of the 4 units we had in our 4age-20V.
A slightly polished inlet, the port already had very smooth surface when it came out from the factory. So what it need is slight rub and polish to make it "near" mirror like ^.^ but not too smooth of fuel will stick on it. 
half way done-ed ITB, just finish polish it with Grade-100 sandpaper to smoothen up the curve and 280 sand paper to make it clear of scratches and will start using Grade-400 sandpaper to do the finishing later, which would take a long time to complete :S
Another look on the throttler body, with one of the ITB removed.
Compare of two cleaned and un-cleaned ITB, it will be really dirty no matter how often you change engine oil, get a oil-catch tank, it will help reducing the engine oil vapor going into the throttler body ^.^ 

Breathing lighter~ more air-taken-in ^_^

While waiting for my custom make brake caliper bracket to be done, i manage to get myself a set of cam from the 4age-20V black-top which had 8.21mm valve-lift  compare to 7.91mm lift in silver top. 

So we were hoping to be able to let more air going into mango's heart during high-rev time. 

While waiting for McGuyver to disassemble the cam, i took the cover to paint it in with my TKA Green paint ^.^ hoho~ at least it dun look too dull in the engine bay :P
Finally the cam was in~ notice that the black-top cam also was lighter compare to silvertop cam. The back side of the cam which it's level, you should notice a slight "sliming" down portion of it. 
The man behind all the mod in mango, McGuyver (Ah Yong).
Old silvertop cam taken out. they will rest in my storage untill they were needed for service later (hopefully not, :P)

Mango is still in a run-in stage now, and get it's air-fuel ratio turning, resetting his air intake amount. But already we can tell a slight increase of power during 3K~5K range ^.^ 

Good news indeed. Will update later when the system in running smoothly.

45 upgrade to 75 -> Power Factor up~!

One Week after coming from Bali, and the first thing i rush to when i re-open my factory on Monday is to my Mango ^.^ (my wife was groaning behind me :P) 

Stuck in the Key and turn *.* .....

......

......

it crank but won't start~ darn, back on the ranger to take my multi-meter and give it a test... 12.7V gosh... the batteries is a gonner. Well, it did serve both my original 4K engine, 4 times Kg Gajah track day and lot's fun time in the rain ^.^ so time for a new batteries. 

In Memories, the old Nippon "DRY" cell battery
So i went to the batteries shop and after much ask around, i settle with a new GP-Atlas 75amp, 140 minutes battery. cost me a big RM310 *_*
Old one only rated 45amps and 70 minutes, no wonder you can't hold longer than one week without charging you up :P
The new BIG boy is  a 75 amps 140 minutes, double the capacity of the old nippon. This should be able to provide my 20V for all the power it need during 8K+ revving ^.^ yes~!

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And Mango crank up nicely with the new battery in and he start up like -turn, 0.3sec of cranking and he fires up :D hurray 75amps~ hohoho.

Greeting From Bali

it's my 4th day in bali now. And first time i had access to internet. hoho. Y? Coz internet access in hotel will cost you RP60000 an hour. Internet cafe charges RP48000 to 80000 per hour! Darn!

But now i'm in gloria jean's coffee house enjoying two cup of ice mocha with my wife and surfing net in a very cozy environment at only RP68000. Nice leh.

Till now first. Will had more post when i reach home. Penang that is. Haha. See ya.

*forget to add in :P - MYR 1 = RP 2500