Mango's progress 7~ *_*......

First thing i saw when i arrive is the really strong-looking front perfectly installed (welded) ~
for sure i won't need to worried about my caster-arm's bracket flexing when i accelerating and braking. 

But then Ah Lai show me some bad news.......(>_<)
the side panel was so rusted, it almost brake off~ this is the bottom, only hold on by a few pieces of metal.... also rusty~
this is the top part, already brake away from the roof~  for what i see and some ah Lai's assumption, the previous owner (a mechanic)  has send the car to some village panel workshop and had it made over with really tight budget. That's y mango was covered with a lot of thin-n-cheaply-made-and-badly-welded-panel all over the body. 
And this is the complete drain on mango's other side of the roof which had been done. you can see the drain is clean and deep compare to the previous roof which is shallow and full with putty.... ~ 

*take as much time as you need Lai~ all i wan is a healthy mango which could company me for as long as he could take ^_^~ Mango is my first car as well as my first love (car)~ 

mango's progress 6~ (put on more weight >_< )

I didn't went visit mango last week coz i wasn't feeling well~ so yesterday die die also went to Lai's place. 

And saw he already started on mango's roof~ which he show me the original pieces
Darn~ all rotten, and very obvious last owner had done some work on it as well, but really 'rough-n-cheap' job :P~
The time i arrive Lai is working on the front structure where the caster arm connected (dunno what it call :P) It not what i though he would did like he said earlier, he told me he would take a pre-fabricated taiwan structure and reinforce with L-bar. Instead~
He custom the whole bar out using something he found a few days before~ ^.^ 
An 1.3mm thick square bar came from......
Guess what~! Our very own house's Gate's support beam~ lol~
almost complete~ that's 1.5 day's work *_*.... (hope he didn't charge me too expensive for that....)
Picture of Lai at work, he's the most skilled person in using oxygen torch i had seen (after my dad :P)~ 

Suspention setting and caster-toe-camber relationship.

While i was looking around for some custom make pillow-mount caster arm, i come across this article :

taken from www.aeu86.org

Spring Rate Changes (def. important for those who dont pay att. to this)
Modification - Effect on Suspension

Increase front and rear rate - Ride harshness increases; tires may not follow bumps causing reduced traction. Roll resistance increases.

Increase front rate only - Front ride rate increases. Front roll resistance increases, increasing understeer or reducing oversteer.

Increase rear rate only - Rear ride rate increases. Rear roll resistance increases, increasing oversteer or reducing understeer.

Decrease front and rear rate - Ride harshness decreases; tires follow bumps more effectively, possibly improving traction. Roll resistance decreases.

Decrease front rate only - Front ride rate decreases. Front roll resistance decreases, decreasing understeer or increasing oversteer.

Decrease rear rate only - Rear ride rate decreases. Rear roll resistance decreases, decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer.


Antiroll Bar Changes (aka sway bar)
Modification - Effect on Suspension

Increase front rate - Front roll resistance increases, increasing understeer or decreasing oversteer. May also reduce camber change, allowing better tire contact patch compliance with the road surface, reducing understeer.

Increase rear rate - Rear roll resistance increases, increasing oversteer or decreasing understeer. On independent rear suspensions, may also reduce camber change, allowing better contact patch compliance with road surface, reducing oversteer.

Decrease front rate - Front roll resistance decreases, decreasing understeer or increasing oversteer. More body roll could reduce tire contact patch area, causing understeer.

Decrease rear rate - Rear roll resistance decreases, decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer. On independent rear suspensions, more body roll could reduce tire contact patch area, causing oversteer.



Shock Absorber Changes (aka your struts)
Modification - Effect on Suspension

Increase rebound and bump rates - Ride harshness increases.

Increase rebound rates only - On bumps, tires may leave track surface.

Increase bump rates only - Body roll resisted; outside tire loaded too quickly; car won't stabilize into a turn.

Decrease rebound and bump rates - Ride harshness decreases; car may float over bumps.

Decrease rebound rates only - On bumps, tires follow track surface more effectively; car may continue to oscillate after bumps.

Decrease bump rates only - Body rolls quickly; car is slower to respond to turn-in.



Troubleshooting Tire Temperatures
Reading - Handling problem - Reason

All tires too hot - * - Compound too soft for track and ambient temperature conditions.

Front tires too hot - Understeer - Front tire pressures too low.

Rear tires too hot - Oversteer - Rear tire pressures too low.

Inside edges too hot - Too much body roll - Too much negative camber or too much toe-out.

Outside edges too hot Too - much body roll - Too little negative camber, too little toe-out or too much toe-in or wheel width too narrow for tire width.

Center of tread too hot - * -Tire pressure too high.

Edges on too hot - * -Tire pressure too low.

All tires too cold - * - Compound too hard for track and ambient temperature conditions or car not being driven to limit.

Front tires too cold - * - Inadequate load on front tires.

Rear tires too cold - * - Inadequate load on rear tires



Solving Handling Problems
Problem - Manifestation *Solutions

Steady state understeer - All turns or low-speed turns only
*If front tire temps are optimum and rears are low, stiffen rear antiroll bar; *if front temps are too hot, soften front (most likely).
*If front tire pressures are optimum, decrease rear tire pressure.
*Increase if chunking occurs.
*Improper front camber.
*Too much body roll at front, causing excessive camber change.

Steady state understeer - High-speed turns only
*If front tire temps are OK, increase front downforce.
*If front tire temps are too hot, reduce rear downforce.

Steady state oversteer - All turns or low-speed turns only
*If rear tire temps are optimum, with fronts too low, stiffen front antiroll bar;
*if rear temps are too hot, soften rear antiroll bar (most likely).
*If rear tire pressures are optimum, decrease front tire pressure. *Increase if chunking occurs.
*Improper rear camber.

Steady state oversteer - High-speed turns only
*If rear tire temps are OK, increase rear downforce.
*If rear tire temps are too hot, reduce front downforce.

Corner entry understeer
*Front shocks are too soft in bump resistance.
*Too much front toe-in; use a small amount of front toe-out.

Corner exit understeer
*Rear shocks are too soft in bump.
*Front shocks are too stiff in rebound.

Corner entry oversteer
*Rear shocks are too soft in rebound.
*Rear ride height is too high (too much rake) compared to front.

Corner exit oversteer
*Rear shocks are too soft in rebound.
*Too much rear toe-in or any rear toe-out.

Straightline instability
*Tire pressure is too low in one or more tires.
*Too little positive front caster.
*Too much front toe-in or any toe-out in rear.

Straightline speed too slow
*Too much overall downforce.
*Too much toe-in or toe-out.
*Ride height is too hight.

Excessive steering effort - All turns
*Too much positive caster.
*Front tire pressures are too low.

Chassis or suspension bottoms
*Spring rates are too soft.
*Shock absorber bump rates are too soft.
*Inadequate suspension travel.
*Inadequate ride height.

Hope it can help setting p our TE/AE ^.^ cheers~
p/s: let me know if it does hit the point~